Dukrachem kharem mas / Salted Pork – The Goan way

 

 

Just prior to monsoon, folks in Goa would prepare/gather/buy enough purument to last the whole monsoon season. Meats like pork and fish would be preserved by applying salt and drying them in the sun (the method varies from village to village). Even spices and pulses were purchased and stored in sufficient quantities. Purument bazaar / Purumentachem fest was organized just before the onset of monsoon season to give villagers a chance to stock up on their provisions.

Today I would like to share a few such methods used back in their day by our Goan ancestors to make Dukrachem kharem mas. Given the present scenario where we have refrigerators at our disposal, the old method has been slightly modified but the same flavor profile is retained in C – Method below.

A :

Below method, I learnt from my Grandma and Mom. This is what we would call-old school.

Ingredients:

800 – 1000gms Pork belly (don’t wash)

4-5 tablespoon Amchem Goenchem Mitt / Kosher salt (quantity will depend on the surface area of the piece you are using)

1 banana leaf

1 Clay pot / kunnem

Preparation:

1. Clean pot and set aside.

2. Now cut the banana leaf into 2 pieces that fit into the kunnem.

3. Wipe the meat dry and keep it skin side down on a cutting board and add gashes at one inch distance from each other and not all the way through ( the skin should be able to hold the piece together so keep the cut one centimeter above the skin).

You can also make vertical and horizontal cuts to create one inch squares shape instead of just vertical slits.

4. Now apply about 3-tablespoon salt all over the meat especially in the grooves.

5. Before putting the meat, sprinkle a generous pinch of salt on the leaves and place the meat skin side down.

 

6. Cover the pot with a muslin cloth.

7. Next day open the pot and remove the meat piece. You will see that the meat has released some liquid this you need to discard.

8. Wipe the leaves dry with a clean cloth and place the meat over the leaves. However, before placing check if you need to apply some salt on the meat in the areas, which are still looking red.

9. Repeat this process for 3-4 days.

10. After that remove the old banana leaf, add one fresh leaf into the kunnem/pot, and place the Salted Pork into it.

11. Cover the pot with a muslin cloth, tie the neck of the pot, and keep in the storeroom (preferable a cold place). During monsoons, the storerooms use to be nice and cool.

12. Your Dukrachem Kharem mas is ready to use.

B :

I learnt this one from my aunty. This too is another old school method.

Ingredients:

800 – 1000gms Pork belly (don’t wash)

3-4 tablespoon Amchem Goenchem Mitt / Kosher salt (quantity will depend on the surface area of the piece you are using)

Banana leaf

1 Clay pot / kunnem

Good amount of weight (stone or anything heavy)

Preparation:

1. Wipe the meat dry and keep it skin side down on a cutting board and add gashes at an inch distance from each other and not all the way through ( the skin should be able to hold the piece together so keep the cut one centimetre from the skin).

2. Now apply about 3-tablespoon salt all over the meat especially in the grooves.

3. Now put the meat into a colander and keep a plate on top of the meat (meat can be placed either flat or rolled; as you prefer).

4. Now add the weight on top of the plate.

5. Place a basin or plate underneath to collect all the liquid that gets drained.

6. Next day discard all the liquid that come out of the meat.

7. Check the meat if it needs more salt, if you see that in some areas meat is still red then sprinkle little salt on it.

8. Repeat this process for 3-4 days.

9. After that add one banana leaf into the kunnem/pot, and place the Salted Pork into it.

10. Cover the pot with a muslin cloth, tie the neck of the pot, and keep in the storeroom (preferable a cold place). During monsoons, the storerooms use to be nice and cool.

11. Your Dukrachem Kharem mas is ready to use.

Note for Process A & B:

*** If you are going to send this to your relatives from Goa to Bombay (AKA Mumbai) or any other place then kindly keep the meat under the sun for a day on day 5. Do not forget to cover the meat with a net or the birds will carry it away. Every one hour shift the meat around so that the meat gets even sunlight all over.

*** If you are using a big slab of pork belly then place it on the back of a cane plate or ceramic plate so that the grooves open and even sunlight reaches all parts of the meat.

*** Optional step: In some villages, they would apply some turmeric powder over the meat before keeping in the sun.

*** Some folks would avoid/skip the first 3-4 days step in the clay pot and directly after apply salt they would dry the meat in the hot sun for 3 days and store.

C :

This is how I like to do these days, keeping in mind that after the curing process is over I will store my salted pork into a freezer for later use.

Ingredients:

500 – 600gms Pork belly (don’t wash)

1½-2 tablespoon Amchem Goenchem Mitt / Kosher salt (quantity will depend on the surface area of the piece you are using) ground finely

Zip lock bags as required

Hooks or thread as required

Preparation:

1. Wipe the meat dry and cut into 1 inch thick slices

2. Now apply about 1-tablespoon salt all over the meat (both sides).

3. Now place the meat into a bowl and keep covered in the chiller.

4. Next day open the bowl and remove the meat piece. You will see that the meat has released some liquid this you need to discard.

5. Now before placing the meat back in the bowl, ensure that you wipe it dry.

6. Check if you need to apply some more salt in the areas, which are still looking red.

7. Cover and keep it back in the chiller.

8. Repeat this process for 3 days.

9. On the 4^th day tie it with a thread or if you have hooks then hook it up and let the meat dry in the sun for a day or 1 ½ day if the sun was not strong enough. Don’t let the meat dry completely.

10. When you put in the sun make sure to turn it around to ensure the all sides of the meat gets even and enough sunlight (hourly).

11. Now place the pieces into a zip lock bag and freeze for later use.

12. Your Dukrachem Kharem mas is ready to use.

**** if you want to cook on the 4^th day with this salted pork, then you can do so after step 10.

Common Note:

A: Recommended process before using the meat for cooking:

1. Remove the required amount of meat.
2. Then soak the meat pieces in water for atleast 1 hour (change water after half hour). This removes the extra salt and reduces the saltiness.
3. Now the meat is ready for cooking.

B: Several dishes can be made using Salted Pork as an ingredient.

C: If your grind the salt to a fine texture you tend to use less salt as it can be sprinkled over a wider surface area. However, remember after grinding let the salt dry in the sun for some time.

Enjoy life, Its delicious.